Many people ask me why the script they use in door to door sales is not working well. One reason is often that they ask the big question too early. When I say “the big question” I mean asking for the goal of your visit. It could be to come in to the home, it could be to get an order, it could be to get an appointment later.

I recently was working with a company that offers a free water heater if you use their natural gas service. Their door to door team was saying. “I am here to sign people up for a free water heater. Would you like to have a free water heater”. Even though it is free, almost no one accepted the offer. It is too abrupt. They went for the “big question” too early.

Here are some suggestions to make your opening more successful:

“Hello, I am Carl With Acme Utilities. We are in the area offering a free new water heater to people who’s water heater is more than 5 years old. Is you water heater five years old or more?” (They only worked in neighborhoods where it was very likely that the water heaters were old). This is a question almost everyone would answer “yes” to.

“Good. Since your heater is that old, we are offering a free upgraded heater that will save you about $10.00 per month on your utility bills. Would a sav9ings of $10.00 per month be a good things for you?” Again, this is a question almost everyone will answer in the affirmative.

“Great. Also, these newer heaters produce about 30% more hot water than the old inefficient model you have now. Would you like it if you never ran out of hot water in the middle of a shower again?” This is also a question most people will agree with.

Once you have them answering “yes” to a few easy questions, you should assume your goal. Don’t end by asking, “Do you want a free water heater”, just say. “Great, I’ll get the paperwork started.”

If you really want to success in door to door sales, never just say what comes to your mind. Write out your script and work on it to cut the words that don’t lead to a sale, to increase the benefits you show the customer and to make your opening more powerful.

If you lay the foundation by building interest and getting answers to smaller, easier questions, your door to door sales scripts will work much better.

<p>Swimming is something that most everyone considers a warm weather summer activity.  But when the weather cools if you have the right gas pool tankless gas water damage cleanup heater you can enjoy your pool, swim spa or hot tub year round no matter where you live. </p> <p><strong>How Gas Pool tankless gas water damage cleanup heaters Work</strong></p> <p>Pool tankless gas water damage cleanup heaters work by re-cycling water damage cleanup, so the water damage cleanup will not be hot to the touch when it comes through the pool jets or inlets.  Heat is added gradually as the water damage cleanup is turned over in the pool.</p> <p>Heat pumps, used in conjunction with a “solar blanket”, open the door to swimming on a daily basis in 85 degree water damage cleanup.  Like a gas tankless gas water damage cleanup heater, the heat pump has the same requirements to operate.  The pump must be operating efficiently, the filter must be clean, and the thermostat must be high enough to activate the tankless gas water damage cleanup heater. </p> <p>Your heat pump runs on electricity.  It requires 50 to 60 amps to run properly.  Although it is much more economical to operate a heat pump, it heats your pool much slower than a gas-fired tankless gas water damage cleanup heater.  Heat pumps are usually rated anywhere from 90,000 to 150,000 BTU’s, whereas a gas tankless gas water damage cleanup heater is typically between 250,000 to 400,000 BTU’s. </p> <p><strong>Common Complaints!</strong></p> <p>The most common complaint we hear about heat pumps is “my heat pump is not working!”  However, if the fan is turning and it is blowing out cool, de-humidified air – that it IS working and you just need to give it more time.</p> <p>Another concern we often hear about is leaking.  However heat pumps, just like air conditioning units, create condensation when functioning properly.  So it is normal to have water damage cleanup leaking from the outlet at the bottom of the tankless gas water damage cleanup heater.</p> <p><strong>Advice for getting the most of out your gas pool tankless gas water damage cleanup heater:</strong></p> <p>Your gas tankless gas water damage cleanup heater will only operate properly if the following factors exist:</p> <ul> <li>Your pump must be operating efficiently</li> <li>Your filter must be clean</li> <li>Your Electronic Controller (PDA) must have the temperature set high enough to activate the tankless gas water damage cleanup heater</li> </ul> <p>Therefore, if your pump strainer basket is full of leaves, or if your filter is dirty, or if your pump is not primed, your tankless gas water damage cleanup heater will not work.  If your controller has your pool set to come up to 85 degrees and your water damage cleanup is already 86 degrees, your tankless gas water damage cleanup heater will not work. </p> <p>One problem that has become much more prevalent lately is insufficient gas supply to the tankless gas water damage cleanup heater.  In order for a gas tankless gas water damage cleanup heater to work properly, a commercial gas meter will be required.</p> <p>In addition, a “dedicated” line of sufficient size is absolutely necessary for the tankless gas water damage cleanup heater to function. </p> <p>Article by:  Charles Elfert</p><p> Swimming is something that almost everyone thinks of hot weather in summer. But when the weather gets cold, if you have the right gas for heating swimming pool you can enjoy the swimming pool, spa bath or hot tub year round where you live. </ P> <strong> As Gas Pool tankless gas water damage cleanup heaters Work </ strong> </ p> Free working water damage cleanup tankless gas water damage cleanup heaters, re-cycling, so water damage cleanup will not be hot to the touch when he was by the pool or the nozzle inlets. heat, gradually add the water damage cleanup returns to the pool. </ P> heat pump used in conjuncti

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Formulae and definition of variables

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The main concept we’re going to be working with is that for the best
efficiency, the runoff volumes from your mash and batch sparge should be equal. In order to do that, it’s sometimes necessary to infuse your mash with extra water before the first runoff. Here’s how it works…

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R1=initial runoff volume which = mash water volume – water absorbed by grain
(assumed to be .1 gal./lb. for this example since that’s the way my system works…use your own figure)

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S= batch sparge water volume

V= total boil volume (amount in needed in kettle for boil)

I=volume of infusions for a step mash

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R1+I+S(1)+S(2)+S(etc.) must equal V

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AND

R1+I=.5V

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Let’s see how this works in a brewing session. Assume a recipe with 10 lb. of grain, and that you need to collect 7 gal. of pre boil wort. A mash ration of 1.25 qt./lb. would require 12.5 qt. or 3.125 gal. of strike water. Based on an absorption of .1 gal./lb., the mash would absorb 1 gal. of water so we’d get 2.125 gal. of water from the mash. Since we want to collect 3.5 gal. (or 50% of the boil volume), after the mash is complete we’d add 1.375 gal. (5.5 qt.) of water to mash tun before the first runoff. Stir the additional water in, let it sit for a few minutes, then vorlauf until clear and start your runoff. After the runoff, we add 3.5 gal. of batch sparge water. Stir it in, rest
10-15 minutes, stir again, then vorlauf and runoff as before. These two runoffs will give us our pre boil volume of 7 gal. of sweet wort.

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Now, let’s take a look at how to build the equipment and do a brew session!

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For the mashtun, you’ll need a cooler. I prefer the rectangular ones. The large top opening makes it easier to stir the mash than a round cooler does. Since grain bed depth makes practically no difference in batch sparging, one of the main reasons people use the round coolers is nullified. The rectangular ones are also cheaper. You’ll also need a rubber bung for a minikeg, some 1/2 inch ODx3/8 inch ID food grade vinyl tubing long enough to reach from whatever you set your cooler on to the bottom of your kettle PLUS 6 inches, an inline nylon valve, and a length of water supply line with a stainless steel braid for a jacket, and 3 hose clamps. The length of the water supply line doesn’t really matter. I use one that’s long enough to run the length of the cooler, but my experiments have shown that shorter ones seem to work as well. Feel free to substitute parts if you’d like something a little snazzier. The only really crucial piece of the whole setup is the stainless hose braid, so if you want to put a fancy ball valve or something else on your mashtun, go for it!

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NOTE: The minikeg bung fits snugly into the hole left from removing the drain in most of the 48-54 qt. coolers I’ve checked. If the fit is loose, or you’re worried about leakage, apply some food grade silicone sealant on the flange before inserting the bung into the cooler. Be creative!

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More in the next installment.

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http://www.thebrewmeister.info

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